Second-hand Barbour

Barbour is an English house whose emblematic piece, the waxed cotton jacket, is judged second-hand in a very particular way: it is made to be re-waxed. A matt, dull or cracking cotton is therefore not a dead piece but one that needs looking after, which is exactly the opposite of most technical garments. What cannot be repaired, on the other hand, is the lining, the fastenings and the pockets - check those first. The sizing is generous, cut to be worn over a thick knit, and follows British sizes. Also check the collar buttonhole and the state of the main fastening, often a heavy-gauge zip specific to the brand, and so expensive to replace. The tartan lining helps place a piece roughly in time.